What to Plant in August

When people tell you “nothing grows in Florida summers” don’t listen! There are so many delicious and easy-to-grow crops that you can enjoy this time of year, and it’s the perfect time to begin planning and planting for your fall Florida garden.

The key to any productive garden is a good foundation. Healthy soil will help your plants start out strong, be more resilient against pests, and handle fluctuations in irrigation better. This is especially important if rely on hand watering like us. It’s easy to skip a day, or go out of town for the weekend if you have healthy soil, rich with organic matter and compost, then topped with mulch. If you’re not composting at home already, we highly recommend you start. It’s easy! We have a self-paced class to get you started.

Beginning gardeners – there are some words that you may not be familiar with. Go down to the bottom of this page for a list of definitions. Check out my recorded class, Starting Your First Florida Garden, for more info about growing seasons and soil.

It’s easy to spend a lot of time and money getting a garden started. If you have tried in the past and it wasn’t very productive or it all died for some reason, you’ve wasted all that time and money. We offer virtual Gardening Coaching Sessions to you get started with your fall Florida garden on the right foot, or solve some problems that you may have encountered.

Keep in mind that these planting guidelines are the traditional cultivars. There are more heat-tolerant varieties of many plants that may survive and thrive during the summer too.

What to Plant Now

Annuals for your Fall Florida Garden

Plant seedlings – tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and okra (seeds or seedlings).

Direct sow – heat-tolerant beans, bush beans, okra, scallion onions, summer and winter squash, pumpkins, cow peas

Central and South Florida gardeners – You can begin planting seeds for some of your cool weather crops towards the end of the month. We tend to wait until the beginning of September to plant our brassicas (kale, broccoli, collards) here in Pinellas County.

In North Florida, you can plant seedlings of your cool weather crops like your brassicas – kale, collards, cabbage, and cauliflower, carrots, celery, cucumbers and turnips. It is probably too late to plant pumpkins. But if you want to try it, look for smaller pumpkins that take less time to mature.

If you are growing sweet potatoes for the tasty edible leaves, you can plant them now but they won’t produce tubers of any decent size. Leave them in the ground and they will produce tubers next year.

Perennials

While we love our annual veggies, the perennials are like the trusty stand-bys in the garden. They are there year round, ready to harvest time and time again. In Central and South Florida you can usually plant these year round. In North Florida, you want to plant them during the spring, summer or fall. They will likely need winter protection.

Our favorites are longevity spinach, Okinawa spinach, cassava, chaya, katuk, moringa, tindora, pineapple and Surinam spinach.

Pro-tip: At the beginning of winter, or if you know it’s going to freeze hard, take cuttings of your perennial crops. That way, you will not loose your plants, even if the whole garden is decimated by night after night of hard freezes.

Herbs

Herbs – most herbs can be planted year round in Central Florida. Parsley, dill, cilantro struggle with our Florida heat. Mint can be fussy too. Other than that, most common herbs will grow for a long time.

Our trick to easy year-round herb gardening: If you struggle to keep herbs alive, try a sub-irrigated pot like an Earthbox. We have our kitchen herb garden in full sun from 1pm-sunset all summer in several Earthboxes right outside the back door and the herbs never even wilt. We recommend keeping them off concrete and away from a building or fence to avoid creating a heat-trap and further increasing the temperatures for your plants in the summer.

Garden Lingo

Annuals: Plants that grow for one growing season, or about one year.

Perennials: Plants that grow for more than one growing season, maybe for several years.

Direct Sow: Planting seeds in the ground where they will grow. This is often because plants have a delicate root system.

Planting seedlings or starts: Planting seeds in small containers or flats so you so transplant them to a larger pot or garden bed later. It is usually easier to control the conditions for delicate seeds to have a better chance of surviving.

Cocoplum Jam

Several years ago, I became fascinated with this landscape plant that I bought on a whim, red-tipped cocoplum (Chrysobalanus icaco). I didn’t really know much about it other than that it was a Florida native shrub with pretty leaves that produced fruit I could eat. After a while, it produced so much fruit, that I began researching recipes for cocoplum jam. They were honestly few and far between, with little detail about how to actually make it.

These cocoplums are plump and ready for jam. Pick this Florida native when there is no trace of white remaining.

I didn’t let that stop me, of course. I tried several recipes to make the perfect cocoplum jam, tweaking this or that to get the best texture and flavor. I believe I have perfected the recipe and the technique. The result is a rich dark burgundy jam that spreads thickly on toast. It’s also delicious on pancakes, Brie cheese, meat, or a charcuterie board. It adds a unique flavor, texture and color that will be sure to fascinate your dinner guests.

This is the pulp after it was separated from the seeds.
The pulp should form a thick liquid while it is cooking down.

Directions to Make Cocoplum Jam

  1. To start, you’ll need about 200 cocoplums. This may seem like a lot but it isn’t really. You can refrigerate or freeze them until you have enough if necessary. PRO TIP: If you don’t have enough cocoplums, add a few chopped apples. You’ll still get the cocoplum flavor.
  2. Wash the cocoplums and add them to a large pot. Cover with water and cook on medium with the lid off. I mash them periodically with a potato masher. After about an hour, the cocoplums will be soft. You’ll notice a good amount of the water has evaporated out too.
  3. Remove the cocoplums and set aside to cool. Pour the liquid into a measuring cup for later.
  4. This is the fun part. You’ll want to wash your hands well or even put on some gloves. Once the fruit has cooled, you need to remove the cooked pulp by hand. I just squeeze the pulp off and kind of fling it into a bowl – you’ll understand what I mean once you dig in. At first, I was diligent about getting it off my fingers but realized quickly that it was futile. You will have cocoplum pulp all over your hands. Set the seeds aside to roast.
  5. You should get about 2 cups of pulp from your 200 cocoplums. Return it to the pan, add 1.5 cups of liquid. If you have that much left from cooking, great. If you need more, add some water. Toss in 2 or 3 cinnamon sticks and cook on low for about 30 minutes. If you want to puree it with an immersion blender or food processor, do it at this point.
  6. Towards the end, add 1/4 cup of citrus juice. You can use lemon, sour orange, orange or lime. We used calamondin juice because that’s what we had ripe in the yard. Your house should start to smell like Christmas.
  7. Add 4 cups of sugar and stir it in well. We used organic cane sugar. At some point, fish the cinnamon sticks out. Continue to cook for about 10 minutes on low, then increase the heat to medium and stir frequently.
  8. If you are making syrup or are opposed to using gelatin, stop here, or use your own homemade pectin from apples for jam.
  9. To continue making jam, you’ll add one package Sure-gel (we like the liquid) and follow the directions on the package. Ours said to return to a rolling boil for one minute, remove it from the heat, and immediately jar it.
  10. If you are not going to water bath can it, you can use recycled jars and lids. It will be good in the refrigerator for a few months.
  11. For shelf stable jam or syrup, we followed water bath canning methods for fruit jams, using canning jars and new lids. To learn how to can using the water bath method, check out our presentation, Preserving Your Harvest.
  12. This recipe yielded about 5 cups of cocoplum jam.

Ingredient List

  • 200 cocoplums
  • 2-3 cinnamon sticks
  • Water to cover cocoplums
  • Up to 1.5 cups reserved liquid or water
  • 4 cups sugar
  • Sure-gel

Materials Needed

  • Large pot
  • Large measuring cup
  • Ladle
  • Jar funnel
  • Hot sterilized jars if water bath canning
  • Recycled jars if not canning
Your cocoplum jam should be thick and spreadable once it’s set.

To Roast the Seeds

The seeds are about the size of a pistachio and taste like a roasted almond. They are actually high in oil. So high that people used to string them together and light them like candles.

They can be eaten raw, but I think it’s fun to roast them after going through the trouble of removing the pulp. They are also way easier to open once they’ve been roasted.

Roast them at 375*F for about 30 minutes or until your desired level of done-ness. Check them every 5 minutes towards the end so they don’t burn. The resulting “nut” will be crunchy and rich.

You can add these to your jam, chop them to top desserts, or just eat them. Enjoy!!!

Preserving Zucchini

If you have more than one happy zucchini plant, you likely have a lot of fruit. Sharing is caring – but when your friends and neighbors start to back away before you can say “zucc-” you know they’ve had enough. Fortunately, there’s so many ways of preserving zucchini for later. Before long, you’ll have homegrown zucchini goodies to last the winter. Maybe next year, your friends will be the ones begging you for some zucchini instead of the other way around.

If you are interested in learning more about preserving zucchini and other food at home, check out our recorded class, available for purchase at this link The Joy of Preserving Food at Home.

Choose fresh, undamaged zucchini or summer squash to preserve. The small to medium sized are best to preserve. The skin is thinner, flesh firmer and there are fewer seeds. The giant ones are best shredded. You’ll probably want to scoop the mushy area with the seeds out of the bigger ones – it’ll have a smoother texture for baking.

Freezing Zucchini

Freezing is one of the easiest and most versatile ways of preserving zucchini. All you do is wash, slice, blanch, cool and package.

Blanching is the process of partially cooking your vegetables by immersing them in boiling water for a short time (water blanching) or in a hot steam bath (steam blanching), then dunking them into ice water. This cleans your vegetables, brightens their color, and stops enzymes from continuing to age the fruit, preserving the flavor and texture.

We prefer to water blanch our zucchini. It’s easier and better suited for a larger quantity being prepped at one time. The method in most recipe books and directions is typically water blanching unless it’s otherwise listed.

Step 1: Cut Up Your Zucchini

To prep for blanching, wash your squash then cut your zucchini into slices, chunks, thick strips or even halved to make stuffed zucchini boats. You can also spiralize or shred the zucchini. Shredded zucchini is perfect for those giant zucchinis you find hidden under a leaf. Use it in breads, soups, and stir fries.

To make chopped, sliced or halved zucchinis, trim off the ends then cut.

To shred the zucchini, use either a box grater or a food processor with a shredder attachment.

To spiralize the zucchini for “zoodles”, run it through a spiralizer.

Step 2: Blanching

Boil a large pot of water. While the water is boiling, immerse the zucchini in small batches for 3 minutes, then drop them immediately into an ice or cold water bath. Make sure the water stays cold. This will stop the cooking process and help preserve the texture of the zucchini a bit.

If you don’t blanch your shredded or spiralized zucchini, that’s okay. It’s better to skip blanching if you aren’t going to let it fully blanch. use it within 2 months.

Step 3: Freezing

You may want to spread out your blanching and cut zucchini on baking sheets in a single layer, freeze them, then package them in either vacuum sealed pouches, freezer bags, squeezing out all of the air, or freezer paper. We to prefer freeze our vegetables in meal sized servings, then wrap in doubled freezer paper taped shut with masking tape. We put several of these packages into a freezer bag to help organize the freezer a bit.

Don’t forget to label and date each package.

There are choices for packaging shredded or spiralized zucchini. My personal favorite is to use a 1 cup silicone cupcake pan. I fill each cup with the zucchini, cover it with a tiny bit of water so it doesn’t flake apart, then freeze the cups overnight. I just pop them out of the pan and into a freezer bag. They’re already pre-measured for baking and soups. You could also package them in pouches, freezer paper, or bags like the cubes.

If you’re using them for baking, thaw each zucchini cube in cheesecloth or a sifter before using it and press out the excess moisture.

Dehydrating Zucchini

Dehydrated zucchini is surprisingly good. It can be used to make low-carb chips or preserve it by dehydrating to use in cooking later. It’s easily re-hydrated in warm water or broth.

Before dehydrating, you may want to blanch your zucchini and squash. This is for food safety purposes as it kills bacteria. It stops the enzymes which causes a loss of flavor during storage, too. If you are dehydrating in your oven or dehydrator above 140*F, you are actually cooking your food while it dehydrates. You can steam blanch your vegetables if you want to preserve more nutrients. If you skip the blanching step, your vegetables may have a shorter shelf life and take longer to re-hydrate.

Follow steps 1 and 2 under Freezing Zucchini to blanch and prepare. You can also refer to the directions Preserving Food: Drying Fruits and Vegetables.

You can slice, cube or shred your zucchini for dehydrating. When they’re properly dried, they will be stiff and hard, so consider the size of your storage container’s opening when cutting them.

Zucchini Chips

My absolute favorite snack this spring was these zucchini chips. (Spring and fall are summer squash seasons in Florida.) You can mix up the herbs and spices according to your taste. I prefer olive oil, rosemary, and garlic salt.

Slice and blanch your zucchini, squeeze the excess water out and let the surface air dry on the racks. Spray or lightly brush a little oil on the tops of the zucchini -not too much or it’ll make a mess and they’ll be dripping with oil if you’re using it. Dehydrate about halfway, then remove the racks, add freshly chopped herbs and finish dehydrating. Sprinkle the finished chips with salt and any powdered herbs. They are so good!

Dehydrated Zucchini

Dehydrated zucchini can easily be re-hydrated and tossed into soups, stir fries and pasta dishes. We usually slice them then cut each slice into halved or quarters so they’ll easily fit into various jars for storage. It is actually our favorite method of food storage because it’s easier than canning and doesn’t require electricity like frozen food does. It’s lightweight for travelling too.

Follow the directions on your dehydrator for temperature and time. You should expect your dehydrated zucchini to be brittle when it’s done.

Wait until your squash fully cools before putting it in storage containers. If you are adding a desiccant pack (not needed if your storage is air tight in a climate controlled or cool area), be sure it’s food grade. We live in Florida and often use a desiccant pack for our larger containers just in case our power goes out. That humidity rises quickly indoors especially with our summer storms.

You can also shred the zucchini and spread it thinly on the racks. You might want to stir it a few times to prevent the pieces from sticking together during the dehydration process. Once it’s done, it’ll take up less space in jars, and be perfect to add to my favorite dehydrated vegetable soup mix or to re-hydrate for baking. If you are one to “hide” vegetables in your cooking for children, shredded zucchini is awesome!

Zucchini Pickles

If you like cucumber pickles, you will LOVE zucchini pickles. They have a slightly different texture but to be honest, we actually prefer them. You could simply substitute zucchini for cucumbers in your favorite recipe or try this Pickled Bread and Butter Zucchini recipe. We substituted our finely-chopped home-grown turmeric for the ground turmeric. They are so good.

Zucchini Relish

Just like pickles, zucchini and summer squash can take the place of cucumbers in relish. We follow a basic recipe for Summer Squash Relish. Sometimes we follow it exactly and sometimes we use a different spice combination. We like to add a finely diced pepper for a kick.

How to Access Our Zoom Classes

Thank you for joining Living Roots Eco Design for a live virtual class. We use Zoom’s webinar platform to host these classes for security and ease of use. Here’s a brief guide to help you learn how to access our Zoom classes, and what you can expect when you sign up for a course with us.

Please note: We do open all of our online classes and webinars up 10 minutes early to allow everyone time to log in and get situated. If you think you might need help, log in early so that we can assist you. Facebook Messenger or email is best. Once the live class begins, we are unable to help log-in. Don’t worry – this rarely happens and can be avoided if you check to be sure you have your log-in info and have downloaded Zoom ahead of time.

Plus, you will get the class recording by email. We welcome questions by email or phone after you watch the class.

Download Zoom Before the Class

You will need to download Zoom on your device and make an account. Both are free, and it should be a quick process. Click HERE to download Zoom now.

What to Expect When You Purchase a Virtual Class

You should immediately receive a receipt from Paypal for your purchase and an email from Zoom with your access instructions, including your personal link to join the class and a password. This is auto-generated. If you don’t receive it within about 30 minutes, check your Spam Folder. You may want to search for our owner’s email address Amanda@LivingRootsEcoDesign.com. It is not case sensitive.

A reminder email is sent the day before the class and about an hour before the class starts. These emails also have your access link and the password to join.

Common Issues We Have Seen:

  • Errors in your email address when you register. Many people have their Paypal account information saved in their phone. Zoom uses Paypal for payment. If you type in your email address into Zoom incorrectly, your Paypal may be charged, but you would not receive the link from Zoom to join the class or the class recording since we send it directly from Zoom. If you don’t receive your link to join the class, please contact us immediately to fix this. It is not a quick fix but we are happy to work on it, provided we have a few hours notice before the class.
  • Your class confirmation email went to spam. Check your spam folder, perhaps searching for Living Roots Eco Design. Mark our email address as “safe” or add it your list of approved contacts to prevent this from happening in the future.
  • Your confirmation email arrived but you may not have seen it. Do a quick search for the class name or our email address, Amanda@livingrootsecodesign.com If you don’t see it, contact us and we can resend it.
  • Users pay with one email address, but register for Zoom with a different email address. This is completely fine to do. It does mean that your receipt and your email with the class access information will go to separate email accounts.
Note: You may need to open the Zoom app and then click the link to join the session for some mobile devices.

What to Expect After Our Live Class

Every virtual event that Living Roots Eco Design presents is recorded. Those recordings are sent to everyone who registers 24 hours after the class whether you attended or not. Some of our classes include a number of e-resources. You will be prompted to set up a free account on our Teachable page Learn-with-Living-Roots.teachable.com, and enroll in this online class using the coupon code that we send to you after the live class. You do not need to pay for it again.

If you are having trouble figuring out how to access our Zoom class recordings, just email or call us. We’re happy to walk you through it.

Potting Mix for Container Gardening

When you set out for the garden center to load up on supplies, it can be a little overwhelming. So many choices and sometimes, there’s limited staff to guide you as to what to choose and why. It can also get pretty expensive – fast.

This post contains affiliate links. We may receive a small commission for your purchase at no additional charge to you.

What To Choose

When you are looking for soil in a garden center, there are typically three main types: top soil, garden soil and potting soil or potting mix. Top soil is a mix of sand, silt and clay. It may contain other things, but it is not nutrient-rich or high in organic matter. This is typically used to fill in holes, level an area, or to mix with compost and other healthy goodies to add to a garden soil. Garden soil is mainly top soil mixed with compost. Use this for raised garden beds and amending the soil in your yard for planting gardens or landscape plants. Potting soil is actually not soil at all which is why it may be labeled as potting mix. It is a soil-less mixture of light, fluffy and fast-draining materials that provide a good environment for plants to grow in containers. Some basic ingredients are coconut coir, peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, compost and fertilizers. There are different blends for different types of plants and for starting seeds, each with their own water holding capacity, texture (particle size), and nutrient content.

If you have a lot of containers that you want to plant, you would likely save a lot of money by purchasing the ingredients to make your own potting mixes at home. You’ll save even more money if you are making a good quality homemade compost or vermicompost (worm compost).

You can easily make your own potting mix with a few simple ingredients, a wheelbarrow or tub of some sort for mixing, a shovel or trowel for mix, and a storage container for any potting mix that you aren’t going to use immediately. A tote with a lid works – you want something to keep the potting mix closed and dry.

Basic Ingredients

Coconut coir is a by-product from coconut processing. It is used as a substitute for sphagnum peat moss because it is more eco-friendly and doesn’t lower the pH of the soil. It is often sold in compressed bricks that you would re-hydrate by submerging them in a bucket of water (rain water is best). The coir will get fluffy and crumbly after about an hour, allowing you to scoop or pour it out of the bucket. PRO TIP: Add your other ingredients to the bin first except your granular fertilizer if you are mixing that in. That way, any excess water will be easily absorbed into your potting mix. If you are storing this for use later, try to minimize the amount of water in your coir. If you’re using it immediately, the excess moisture in moderation is fine. It does have more nutrients than peat and is more sustainable, so I choose to use coir personally. However it is more expensive.

Sphagnum peat moss is a natural material that is harvested from old peat bogs. It takes thousands of years to form, and is actually one of the biggest carbon sinks (places that sequester carbon underground) so it isn’t a sustainable product. It is sold in compressed bales that are surprisingly light-weight making it a very popular choice for potting mixes. Peat does lower the pH of the soil so you’ll need to add a bit of limestone to the mix. It also has very little nutrient value for your plants – adding fertilizer and good quality compost are important.

Vermiculite is a powdery substance that is actually a mined material. It is light weight and is added to increase pore space and water retention of your potting mix. Vermiculite also adds calcium and magnesium. Be sure to wear a mask or handle vermiculite in well-ventilated areas outdoors, and don’t stand up-wind of it as you are pouring and mixing.

Perlite looks like small Styrofoam balls in your potting mix but it isn’t. It’s actually another mined material. It is light-weight and also improves your soil’s water holding capacity and drainage. It is neutral in pH. Many people add perlite to raised garden beds to prevent compaction.

Compost is decomposed organic matter that you can make at home, get from a friend or purchase in bags. It is rich in nutrients and full of beneficial microbes that actually help your plants take in minerals and water from the soil. Compost will also help your soil retain water. Because of this, you don’t want to fill containers up with 100% compost. It will be too heavy for healthy plants, however, it is great to add to potting mix to add nutrients. It will need to be screened or sifted of any large pieces of mulch that haven’t broken down. If you are using it to start seeds, you’ll need to sift it with a much finer screen so all of the particles are very small – maybe 1/8 of an inch hole size. Homemade or commercially available compost will work.

Want to learn to compost? Check out our online class, Composting for Beginners. Use coupon code FALLGARDEN2020 for 50% off.

Vermicompost is actually worm poo. It’s made by specialized worms that eat food scraps. You can make this at home by having a vermiculture bin sometimes referred to as a worm farm or you can purchase it from a store in bags. Like compost, it is high in nutrients, beneficial microbes and helps your soil to retain moisture. A little goes a long ways, so if you are making this at home and only have a cup or two to add to your containers, that’s quite okay. It’s very powerful stuff – in a good way.

Sand is an important ingredient in potting mix for trees, cacti, and shrubs. If you are planting plants (such as many Florida natives) that prefer a less fertile soil, adding coarse sand will help those plants to feel more at home in their new container. If you’re looking for sand to purchase, avoid getting Play Sand, which is too fine and will end up making your potting mix too dense. Coarse sand or builders sand is preferred.

Lime or Limestone is a powdery substance made from crushing limestone. If you have a choice of products, it is probably between either calcitic or dolomitic limestone. The biggest difference is that calcitic lime contains only calcium while the dolomitic lime has both calcium and magnesium. Both are necessary for plant growth and fruit production BUT adding lime does change the pH of the soil. You will usually only use a tiny bit and then usually only if you are using a peat moss product in your potting mix or you take a soil sample that indicates your pH is too acidic (low).

Wood chips or mulch can be added to mixes for some plants, particularly composted wood chips rather than fresh so they have already started to break down. This is a common ingredient in potting mixes for woody plants – shrubs and trees. Do not add composted or un-composted wood chips to potting mixes for annual vegetables or herbs. The partially decomposed wood will continue to break down, using nitrogen in the soil in this process. You can compensate for this by adding some grass clippings or legume (bean or pea) leaves to the surface of the soil and topping with mulch and/or adding blood meal or alfalfa meal to the soil mix. They will all supply some extra nitrogen to balance the wood chips’ use of it. A nitrogen deficiency in plants is usually evidenced by yellowing leaves starting at the lower leaves.

Fertilizer is important to add to a DIY potting mix, especially if it is peat-based therefore lower in nutrients. You can add an organic time released granular fertilizer or you can use a number of different natural products to add nutrients to the soil. Bone meal is released slowly into the soil (takes 6-8 weeks) and will add phosphorus and calcium to the soil and is good for root development. Blood meal will add nitrogen into the soil. This will help with leaf development and make plants greener. Alfalfa meal or pellets are good for nitrogen as well. Sea kelp in powdered or liquid form or rinsed seaweed adds micro-nutrients to the soil (think Dead Sea mud mask for your garden).

As always, read the labels on products that you buy to make sure you are using the proper amount. In many cases, a little is all you need and more is not better. There are also natural products such as fish emulsion and liquid sea kelp that you can add to plants periodically during the growing season to boost their nutrient availability.

DIY Potting Mix Recipes

Our unit of measure here is gallons because we usually pour ingredients into 5 gallon buckets and measure. You can divide a 5 gallon bucket into 5 parts and mark it off with permanent marker dashes to help you make your measurements more precise, or you can guesstimate. If these quantities don’t suit your needs, switch the word gallons to parts and use any unit (larger or smaller) to make the amount of potting mix you need.

We highly recommend using coconut coir rather than peat for sustainability purposes. If you decide to use peat instead, substitute it in equal amounts for the coir and add 1 heaping tablespoon of lime per gallon.

While mixing, wear a face mask to avoid breathing in any airborne particulates. Soil and compost borne diseases are real, and vermiculite and perlite dust are not good to inhale. Safety glasses and gloves should also be worn. Don’t make your potting mix on a windy day.

Basic Potting Mix for Vegetables, Herbs and Plants that Like Nutrient Rich Soil

4 gallons soaked coconut coir

2 gallons perlite

2 gallons vermiculite

6 gallons sifted compost

2 cups vermicompost if available

Fertilizers specific for your plant needs (total of 1 cup)

Seed Starting Mix

1 gallon coconut coir

1 gallon vermiculite

1 gallon perlite

1/2 gallon sifted compost or worm castings

Blueberry Potting Mix (and other Acid Loving Plants)

1 gallon compost

1 gallon perlite or vermiculite

2 gallons pine fines (partially composted and shredded pine) or composted pine bark

1 cup fertilizer blend – blood meal, bone meal, sea kelp

Coffee grounds can be added periodically to the surface of the soil

Cactus and Succulent Mix

2 gallons coconut coir

1 gallon perlite

1 gallon vermiculite

2 gallons coarse sand

Woody Plant Potting Mix (Trees and Shrubs)

2 gallons coconut coir

2 gallons composted bark (which can be sifted from compost)

2 gallons compost

2 gallons coarse sand

2 cups fertilizer blend